Mounting cabinets on walls with metal studs requires some special considerations compared to mounting on wood stud walls. Metal studs are thinner than wood studs and cannot hold screws as well. However, with the right preparation and materials, you can securely mount cabinets on a metal stud wall.
Introduction
Metal stud walls are common in modern construction because metal is non-combustible, non-rotting, and resistant to termites and other pests. Metal framing also allows for thinner walls because the studs take up less space than wood studs.
However, the thin profile of metal studs makes mounting heavy objects like cabinets more challenging. Standard drywall screws are prone to tear out of the thin metal. Heavy duty toggle bolts are necessary for a sturdy mount. Careful measurement is also important to locate the metal studs behind the drywall and ensure the cabinets are anchored securely.
With proper planning and materials, metal studs can provide a strong mounting surface for cabinets. The key steps include:
- Locating the metal studs behind the drywall
- Usingtoggle bolts rated for a heavy load
- Installing solid wood blocking between studs for additional strength
- Pre-drilling holes in the metal studs
- Using fender washers to reinforce the toggle bolts
- Checking for level and securing adjoining cabinets together
Following these best practices will result in cabinets that are mounted securely on a metal stud wall. This article provides detailed instructions for each step of the process.
Locating the Metal Studs
The first step is finding exactly where the metal studs are behind the wall so you can anchor the cabinets directly to them.
Here are some tips for locating metal studs:
- Use a stud finder – Stud finders used for wood can also detect the edges of metal studs through drywall. Slowly scan the stud finder across the wall until it indicates an edge.
- Look for drywall seams – Drywall panels are often installed with seams aligned with the studs. Look for vertical seams and screw indentations to indicate potential stud locations.
- Measure and mark – Metal studs are usually spaced 16 inches or 24 inches apart. Measure from an edge and make incremental marks where you expect studs to be.
- Use magnets – Strong magnets like rare earth neodymium will stick to drywall screws or the metal studs directly. Slide a magnet vertically to feel it pull at the screw locations.
- Make small holes – As a last resort, you can cut tiny holes in the drywall to verify stud locations before patching. Avoid this if possible to minimize drywall damage.
Once you have marked the stud locations, confirm they align with the expected mounting points for your cabinets. It’s best to anchor cabinets directly into the center of metal studs for maximum holding strength. Adjust your cabinet layout if needed to line up with the studs.
Using Appropriate Toggle Bolts
With the studs marked, specialized hardware is required for mounting to metal. Standard drywall screws should not be used as they lack the shear strength to mount cabinets securely.
Toggle bolts are ideal for mounting on metal studs. The toggles pass through pre-drilled holes in the stud and then spring open behind the wall, providing a wide backing surface. This distributes the load from the cabinet over a larger area rather than concentrating it on the threads.
Look for toggle bolts specifically rated to handle heavy loads, such as:
- Heavy duty steel toggle bolts – These have thicker toggle wings and threaded shafts to withstand shear forces. Aim for at least 150 lb rating each.
- Hollow wall anchors – These anchor deep into the hollow wall cavity and can hold over 500 lbs when installed correctly. Brands like Snaptoggle are ideal for heavy cabinets.
Avoid plastic toggle anchors as these are prone to breaking under shear loads. Investing in high strength metal toggle bolts suitable for the total weight of your cabinets will give the most secure mount.
Adding Wood Blocking Between Studs
For maximum strength, it’s advisable to add wood blocking between studs where cabinets will be installed. Short lengths of 2×4 or 2×6 lumber can be screwed into place horizontally between studs.
With wood backing installed, the toggle bolts have a very sturdy material to grip into, sandwiching the cabinets tightly between the studs. This prevents any chance of shifting or sagging under the cabinet weight.
Cut blocks of untreated lumber to fit snugly between the studs at the desired cabinet height. Pre-drill clearance holes in the blocking to allow screws to pass through. Then use drywall or deck screws to attach the blocks to the metal studs. Two to three screws at each end are sufficient.
The wood blocking distributes weight laterally and reinforces the entire mounting surface. Adding this backing provides great insurance against any long term movement of heavy upper cabinets.
Pre-Drilling Holes in the Metal Studs
Metal studs require pre-drilling before driving in screws or toggle bolts. Screws can split the thin metal if not pre-drilled properly. Here are some tips:
- Use a sharp high-speed steel bit to cut clean holes and prevent overheating the drill bit. Carbide drill bits also work well.
- Pre-drill a clearance hole slightly wider than the screw’s shaft but narrower than the screw head. For example, use a 1/8″ bit for a #10 screw.
- Drill holes in the exact center of the metal stud to maximize holding strength. Use a punch or center finder accessory to start each hole.
- For added holding power, drill holes on opposing sides of the same stud and stagger the screws.
- Spraying cutting oil on the drill bit and metal stud reduces friction and prevents overheating.
- Let the drill do the work. Don’t apply excessive pressure which can bend the bit or warp the stud.
Taking the time to pre-drill clearance holes results in screws seating flush and tight against the metal studs beneath the drywall. This prevents spinning and stripping out the threads under load.
Using Fender Washers
For an extra layer of strength, use fender washers in combination with the toggle bolts. These wide, flat washers spread force out like a fender on a car.
Follow this process when using fender washers:
- Drill toggle bolt pilot holes through the fender washer first, keeping it centered.
- Install the toggle bolt through the washer and stud as normal.
- When engaged, the fender washer is sandwiched between the cabinet and drywall.
- The wide surface area reinforces the drywall and prevents the bolt head from pulling through.
Choose fender washers with an outer diameter at least 2.5 times larger than the bolt head diameter. For 3/16″ toggles, use #10 or #12 gauge washers around 1″ or 1-1/4″ diameter.
Pro tip: For very heavy upper cabinets, use oversized washers or square plates on both sides of the drywall for maximum load distribution.
Checking for Level
With the toggle bolts and washers installed in the pre-drilled studs, you can now mount the cabinets. But before tightening them down fully, it’s crucial to verify the cabinets will be level.
Use a 4-foot level or laser level placed along the cabinet bottom to check for level side-to-side and front-to-back. If needed, insert shims between the wall and cabinet to bring it into level alignment before tightening the toggles completely.
The final toggle tightening pulls the cabinet snug and square on the wall. Taking this time to fine tune ensures your cabinets start off perfectly level rather than trying to correct later.
Recheck for plumb after fully tightening the toggles. Carefully shim any gaps behind the cabinets that could compromise rigidity.
Securing Adjoining Cabinets
For a seamless look, mount adjoining cabinets by securing them together rather than individually on the wall.
- First mount an end cabinet securely to the wall studs using the toggle bolts.
- Then attach the adjoining cabinet to the mounted end cabinet, drilling pilot holes through the cabinet sides.
- Join them together securely using 1-1/2″ drywall screws driven into the end cabinet’s side brace.
- Shim any gap between the wall and second cabinet so they fit flush together.
Joining cabinets together transfers the load from the wall onto the neighboring cabinet. This removes any independent movement or separation, and braces the run of cabinets as a single unit.
Continue this method of mounting the end cabinets first, then joining each additional cabinet to the next. The result is a perfectly aligned row of cabinets secured tightly to the wall studs and each other.
Helpful Tips and Tricks
Keep these additional tips in mind for a smooth installation:
- Use a poky tool to push and guide the toggle wings behind the drywall before tightening.
- Break off the toggle neck after installation so only the low profile bolt head shows.
- For heavy sinks or stoves, also lag the cabinets together from below to prevent spreading.
- Run a bead of caulk along the wall and cabinet tops to seal any gaps after installation.
- Consider reinforcing the drywall beforehand by applying wood strips or plywood where cabinet corners will be.
- Use extra toggles spaced closely for wall oven cabinets or other heavy loads.
- Make sure electrical and plumbing have been accounted for if penetrating walls.
Conclusion
Mounting cabinets securely on metal stud walls requires careful planning, the right hardware, and proper technique. But with toggle bolts anchored into pre-drilled studs and wood blocking installed between them, metal studs can provide a remarkably robust mounting platform.
Following these best practices for locating studs, using heavy duty toggles rated for the load, pre-drilling metal studs, and joining cabinets together will result in a safe, sturdy installation that lasts.
Take the time to properly mark stud locations, add reinforcing blocking, choose quality toggles, and mount cabinets level. Your cabinets will be firmly anchored to withstand years of heavy use when properly secured to metal stud walls.