Laying outdoor tiles on dirt can completely transform an outdoor space, providing a clean and polished look. However, proper preparation and installation techniques are crucial for success. Here is a comprehensive guide on how to lay outdoor tiles on dirt correctly.
Introduction
Outdoor tiling projects can range from small patio areas to large pool surrounds. Tiling directly onto compacted dirt is a popular method as it eliminates the need for cement rendering or mortar beds. This makes the installation process faster, easier and more affordable.
When done properly, laying tiles on dirt can provide a durable and stable flooring solution. However, inadequate groundwork and preparation can lead to cracked, uneven and loose tiles in the future. Careful planning and an attention to detail is required for best results.
This guide will take you through the complete process of how to lay outdoor tiles on dirt successfully. We’ll cover everything you need to know including:
- Selecting the right tiles
- Preparing the ground
- Compacting and levelling
- Laying a weed mat
- Cutting tiles
- Adhering the tiles
- Grouting and sealing
Follow these steps correctly and you’ll have a perfectly tiled outdoor area that will last for many years. Let’s get into the specifics.
Choosing the Right Outdoor Tiles
The first step is to select outdoor tiles suitable for direct bonding to compacted dirt. Consider the following:
Tile Material
- Ceramic or Porcelain – Most durable and resistant to cracking, chipping, heat and water. Best for heavy usage areas.
- Natural Stone – Beautiful but softer and more prone to cracking if not laid properly. Granite, limestone or slate work best.
- Concrete – Affordable option that can mimic stone. Prone to damage if not sealed and protected.
Opt for thicker, larger format tiles wherever possible as these provide more stability. Avoid low quality or thin hand-made tiles.
Tile Texture
- Textured or stone-look finish provides additional grip underfoot when wet
- Too smooth/shiny a surface can become dangerously slippery
- Small tile sizes may not tolerate foot traffic as well
- Mosaic sheets prone to loosening or becoming uneven
Consider bare feet around pools – small tile grout joints can be uncomfortable underfoot. Larger grout line widths can improve grip and comfort.
Tile Colouring
Lighter colours show dirt, debris and stains more easily. Natural tones like grey, beige and brown help conceal. Strong patterns or varied colours can also hide overall wear and tear.
LED lighting underneath can create a dramatic effect at night-time.
Non-Slip Rating
Check tiles have a Pendulum Test Value (PTV) rating of 36+ for outdoor steps and wet areas. 60+ PTV represents highest slip resistance.
Now that suitable outdoor tile materials are selected, we can move onto groundwork and preparation.
Preparing and Levelling the Ground
Proper preparation is absolutely vital for a lasting outdoor tile installation directly onto dirt. Any looseness or movement underneath will quickly cause cracking and loosening of tiles above.
Follow these key groundwork steps:
Remove Grass, Roots and Weeds
Remove all vegetation down to bare dirt using a mattock, shovel or herbicide. Dig out plant roots as any regrowth can damage tiles.
Till the Soil
Break up and loosen compacted topsoil to a depth of at least 2 inches using a rotary hoe or garden fork. This allows it to be re-compressed evenly.
Add Gravel and Compact
Spread a 2 inch layer of coarse gravel or crushed rock. Compact down firmly using a hand tamper, jumping jack or plate compactor in overlapping passes.
Check Level
Use a long spirit level and/or straight edge to identify any hollows, bumps or slopes. Fill low spots with extra gravel and re-compact until level.
Screed Sand Over Surface
Smooth out a 1 inch layer of coarse builder’s sand over the compacted gravel sub-base using a straight screed board. This creates a final bed for the tile adhesive.
Compact the screeded sand down firmly to approximately 25mm thickness. Ensure the area is precisely level before tiling, with no high or low spots.
The ground is now prepared for tiling onto!
Laying Weed Mat Barrier
A weed mat provides crucial protection against future weed growth which could damage tiles or push up through the joints.
Overlap sheets by 6 inches and cut closely around any protrusions. Weigh down edges with small concrete pavers to prevent lifting.
Ensure weed mat fabric won’t be visible or protrude once tiles are laid. Now we’re ready to start adhering the tiles.
Setting Out the Tiles
Before fixing tiles in place, it’s important to dry lay them first:
- Map out the tile layout to ensure you achieve a pleasing pattern and geometry. Some key tips:
- Combine directional patterns with borders or bands
- Avoid narrow sliver cuts at edges
- Mix tile orientations for a less uniform appearance
- Blend colours randomly for a natural effect
- Adjust the layout to minimise tricky tile cuts. Small areas of cut tiles are prone to loosening.
- Ensure sufficient perimeter border tiles to tightly frame the entire area.
With the desired layout confirmed, mark reference lines on the base to keep the pattern aligned when permanently fixing tiles.
Cutting Tiles
Cutting outdoor tiles requires greater accuracy than indoor tiles to prevent damage or breakage:
- Mark each tile precisely before cutting using a square and pencil/felt tip.
- Use a diamond blade power saw with water cooling for fastest and cleanest cuts.
- Cut half tiles can also be snapped using tile nippers for simple straight cuts. Irregular shapes need sawing.
- Ensure cut tiles edges are smooth – nicks can lead to cracking. Rub down sharp edges.
- Mix cut tiles randomly throughout layout – don’t cluster them together.
Take extra care cutting natural stone tiles which can crack more easily if stressed or rushed. Now we’re ready to start fixing the tiles in place.
Adhering the Tiles
Applying the tiles securely and evenly is key to a lasting installation. Avoid thin-set mortars which can crack under ground movement. Flexible tile adhesives work best:
Choose the Adhesive
Use a high quality exterior-rated flexible tile adhesive suitable for bonding to dirt/sand. These remain malleable and help absorb ground movement.
A thick, heavy bodied adhesive works best to maximise contact with the tile backing.
Spread the Adhesive
Trowel a layer approximately 12mm thick using a 10-12mm notched trowel. Only spread enough adhesive for about 1 square metre at a time.
Back-Buttering
Additionally spread adhesive over the entire back of each tile before placing – known as back-buttering. This improves overall coverage and bonding.
Set the Tiles
Firmly press and slide each tile into position with a slight twisting action to flatten ridges and achieve at least 80% adhesive contact.
Check Levels
Use tile spacers and a spirit level to ensure tiles are perfectly flush across the entire installation. Adjust any slight height variations promptly before the adhesive dries.
Clean Up Excess
Remove any smeared adhesive promptly from tile faces and joints using a damp sponge before it dries. Tiles must be kept clean for grouting later.
Leave a suitable drying time before grouting – usually 24-48 hours depending on temperature. The tiles are now securely bonded but we need to seal the joints.
Grouting the Tile Joints
Grouting flls the spaces between the tiles to provide a seamless finish. Gaps left unfilled can trap dirt and moisture leading to staining and mildew.
Joint Width
Outdoor floor tiles generally require a wider grout joint width than walls due to increased stresses and ground movement.
Use 4-6mm spacing between tiles on dirt substrates. Wider gaps up to 10mm can further improve stability and grip underfoot.
Grout Colours
Contrasting grout (ie. grey tiles with white grout) highlights the tile pattern but shows dirt readily. Matching grout colour helps hide dirt but disguises the design.
Consider maintenance implications before deciding on colour.
Applying Grout
Work in small sections for best results:
- Dampen tiles first to prevent rapid moisture loss
- Force grout firmly into joints using a rubber trowel or grout float
- Clean off residue immediately using minimal water and frequent rinse out of sponges/buckets
- Smooth joints and clean tiles thoroughly
- Check for missed spots – regrout if needed
- Remove any remaining haze once dry using a soft cloth
Avoid the common mistake of using too much water which can weaken grout and cause cracking.
Sealing the Tiled Surface
The final step is applying a protective sealer suitable for the tile material:
Stone or Concrete Pavers
Use an impregnating sealer that soaks into the tile surface. Provides stain resistance and reduces moisture penetration.
Apply 2-3 coats as per manufacturer directions, allowing time to dry between coats.
Ceramic or Porcelain
Can benefit from a surface sealer for added protection and easier cleaning.
Opt for a natural look water-based sealer on textured tiles to avoid a glossy plastic appearance.
With sealing complete, the tile installation is finished! Sweep any leftover debris from the joints and admire the finished outdoor space.
Tile Maintenance Tips
Some recommendations for keeping your outdoor tiles on dirt looking great long-term:
- Inspect often for any damaged/cracked tiles. Replace these promptly to prevent worsening.
- Re-apply sealer every 2-3 years as protection reduces over time.
- Prevent heavy soil build up through regular sweeping or blowing debris from tile joints.
- Control plant regrowth by spraying weed killer or pouring boiling water on unwanted sprouting.
- Use outdoor cleaners formulated for natural stone or concrete as required. Test first.
- In very cold climates, remove and store tiles over winter to prevent frost cracking.
With proper installation and care, outdoor tiles on dirt provide a stylish, robust and affordable flooring option for driveways, patios, pool surrounds and more!
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use mortar instead of tile adhesive?
Mortar is very rigid once cured and can easily crack if ground settles even slightly. Flexible tile adhesives are strongly recommended for bonding tiles to bare dirt.
How level does the ground need to be?
A perfectly flat and stable base is crucial – aim for a maximum tolerance of 3mm over 3 metres. Use a long straight edge and spirit level to identify any problem spots.
Should I use larger or smaller tiles?
In general, larger format tiles provide greater stability as there are fewer joints. Mosaics and small tiles are prone to loosening over time unless the base is extremely stable and level.
Can the tiles become loose?
With inadequate preparation or ground movement, tiles can crack, lift or become uneven. Ensure proper compaction and grading to prevent long term issues.
How long will outdoor tiles on dirt last?
When installed correctly onto a stable, compacted base the tiles should remain firmly adhered for over 10 years plus. Maintenance is key to ensure their longevity.
Can I use a plate compactor to lay the tiles?
No, compactors can crack tiles. Carefully laying by hand ensures even adhesive contact without any concentrated stresses.
Conclusion
Laying outdoor tiles on dirt can be a big project, but very rewarding when completed. The finished result provides a seamless tiled area ideal for driveway, patios, pool surrounds and more.
Success comes down to proper planning, high quality materials and meticulous installation. Rushing the groundwork or using inferior tiles will compromise durability and appearance.
If carefully following the techniques outlined here, you can achieve a stunning outdoor tiled space directly over bare dirt subgrade. Just allow sufficient time and care at each step for best results.
Your new durable and stylish outdoor tiles will provide enjoyment for many years to come!