How to Finish Old Wood Floors on Outdoor Kitchen Cabinets - Outdoor Cabinets

Outdoor kitchens are becoming increasingly popular additions to backyards and patios. They allow you to cook, dine, and entertain outdoors. However, like any outdoor space, an outdoor kitchen requires proper maintenance and care. The wood floors can be particularly prone to weathering, water damage, and wear and tear over time. Refinishing the wood floors of your outdoor kitchen cabinets can help protect them and give your space a fresh new look. Here is a comprehensive guide on how to finish old wood floors on outdoor kitchen cabinets.

Clean and Prepare the Wood Surface

The first step is to thoroughly clean the wood to remove any dirt, debris, grease or grime. This allows the new finish to properly adhere to the wood surface. Here are the steps for prepping the wood:

Remove all contents from the cabinets so you have full access to the floors.
Sweep the floors with a broom to remove loose dirt and debris.
Use a power washer or hose to spray away any caked-on dirt or stains. Allow the wood to completely dry afterwards.
Wipe down the floors with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits to remove any remaining oils, grease or grime.
Sand the floors lightly with 120-220 grit sandpaper to smooth any rough areas and remove splintered or cracked pieces of wood.
Vacuum the floors thoroughly to remove all sanding dust and debris. The wood needs to be completely clean and dry before applying new finish.

Proper cleaning and sanding ensures the new finish will properly adhere to the wood surface. Any remaining contaminants can prevent the finish from bonding correctly.

Assess the Condition of the Current Finish

Once the wood is cleaned, take a close look to assess the condition of the existing finish. This helps determine how much sanding and prep is needed before applying fresh coats. Things to look for:

Peeling or cracked finish: Areas where the current finish has peeled, bubbled or cracked will need to be stripped and sanded to remove the damaged layer before refinishing.
Discoloration or dark spots: Discolored or uneven areas indicate the grease and grime have penetrated the finish and permanently damaged the wood. You may need to sand down to fresh wood in those spots.
Worn, dull or rough areas: Lightly sand to smooth and remove worn finish. But take care not to over-sand since you want to preserve as much of the current finish as possible.
Severity of weathering: Badly weathered and grayed wood likely needs complete sanding to fresh wood before new stain and finish. Lightly weathered floors can likely just be cleaned, lightly sanded and recoated.

Assessing the current condition allows you to determine the scope of sanding required as you prepare for recoating. Focus on damaged areas but avoid over-sanding good finish.

Sand the Cabinets Lightly

Once all the damaged finish has been stripped, perform light sanding over the entire cabinet floor surfaces. Here are some tips:

Use a random orbital sander with 120-220 grit sandpaper. Go with the grain to avoid scratches.
Apply only light pressure to avoid removing too much good finish.
Concentrate on rough, uneven areas to smooth them out. Use a sanding block for hard to reach areas.
Always vacuum after sanding to remove all dust before recoating. Dust will affect the finish.
Wear a dust mask when sanding to prevent inhaling wood particles. Work in a well ventilated area.
Go over nails and screws to prevent any bumps or protrusions in the new finish.

The goal is to prep and rough up the existing finish so the new coats have something to adhere to. But avoid sanding all the way down to bare wood, which requires starting from scratch.

Clean and Vacuum the Surface Again

Once sanding is complete, thoroughly vacuum and wipe down the cabinet floors again. This critical step ensures no dust, debris or contaminants are left on the surface before finishing.

Carefully vacuum both inside the cabinets and on all accessible floor surfaces.
Use a cloth dampened with mineral spirits to pick up any remaining dust or particles.
Allow the cabinets to fully dry before moving onto the next step. Any moisture under the new finish can cause bubbles or peeling.

Proper cleaning ensures the bare wood is exposed for the new finish and removes any contaminants that can prevent proper adhesion.

Apply Wood Conditioner

For soft or porous woods like pine, birch, maple, cherry or oak, consider applying a wood conditioner before staining and finishing. The conditioner seals the wood pores so the stain penetrates evenly. This prevents blotchy or uneven coloring. Here’s how to apply it:

Choose a conditioner suited for your wood type and follow the product directions.
Stir the conditioner thoroughly before applying and during use to prevent separation.
Apply a thin, even layer across the wood using a rag or foam applicator. Allow to penetrate for 5-15 minutes.
Wipe away any excess conditioner not absorbed by the wood using a clean, dry cloth. Remove any puddles or drips.
Allow the conditioner to fully cure per the manufacturer’s directions before sanding or finishing. Often 24 hours.

Conditioning provides a smooth, even base for the stain and finish to adhere to for a uniform appearance.

Stain the Wood for Desired Color

Once sanded, cleaned and conditioned, you can apply stain to achieve the desired wood color. Here are some staining tips:

Select oil-based or water-based stain suited for outdoor use. Oil-based offers greater weather resistance.
Carefully follow the manufacturer’s stain application and cleanup directions.
Stir the stain thoroughly before and during application for consistent coloring.
Use a high quality bristle or foam brush to apply a uniform coat. Avoid dripping.
Allow the stain to penetrate the wood for 5-15 minutes before wiping away all excess.
Let the stain cure fully before applying finish coats, usually at least 24 hours.
Consider applying a second coat of stain for darker coloring if desired after the first coat fully cures.

Staining brings out the depth and rich color of the wood. For the most durable and long-lasting finish, always use stain marketed for outdoor kitchen and wood projects.

Apply Exterior Polyurethane Finish

An exterior grade polyurethane is the best finish for protecting outdoor wood floors. The water-resistant poly coats seal the stained wood to prevent moisture damage. Here are some tips for application:

Purchase oil-based or water-based polyurethane designed for outdoor wood projects.
Carefully read and follow the manufacturer’s application instructions.
Stir the poly thoroughly before and periodically during application.
Use a good quality natural bristle brush to apply the poly along the wood grain. Avoid bubbles.
Apply 2-3 thin, even coats allowing proper drying time between coats. Usually 24 hours.
Lightly sand with 220 grit after the first coat dries to ensure subsequent coats bond well.
Add additional coats until you achieve the desired smooth, protective finish.
Allow the final coat to cure fully one week before regular use.

The polyurethane finish protects the beauty of your stained wood while providing a durable, renewable surface that prevents moisture damage.

Maintain the Finish Properly Over Time

Your outdoor wood floor finish requires some regular maintenance to stay beautiful over many years. Here are some care tips:

Inspect routinely for any damaged areas in the finish and immediately sand and recoat as needed.
When finish becomes worn, dull or rough, thoroughly clean and sand before applying 1-2 fresh coats of polyurethane.
Re-stain the wood as needed when excessive weathering occurs before refinishing.
Keep the cabinet floors clean by sweeping often and spraying down with a hose occasionally.
Recoat every 2-4 years to maintain the protective finish and refresh the appearance.
Avoid excessive water exposure from sprinklers or runoff that can damage the wood and finish.
Utilize outdoor mats and keep grill areas clean to minimize grease exposure.

With proper prep and the right exterior grade products, you can have beautiful, protected wood floors in your outdoor kitchen for many years to come. Maintain the finish well and reapply fresh coats as needed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use an interior polyurethane instead of an exterior one?

No, interior finishes will quickly break down when exposed to outdoor weather elements like sun, rain, snow and temperature fluctuations. Always use finishes specifically designed for outdoor wood projects.

What kind of sander should I use to prep the old finish?

A random orbital sander is ideal as it is less likely to leave swirl marks in the wood. Use 120-220 grit sandpaper and sand lightly to avoid removing too much finish.

How long does it take for polyurethane to fully cure?

Oil-based poly usually cures within 24 hours while water-based types take a little longer. But allow 1 week minimum before heavy use of the cabinets to ensure full curing. Adding multiple coats extends curing time.

Can I apply the new finish over paint instead of stain?

Yes, you can apply exterior grade polyurethane over old paint, but the floor will likely need aggressive sanding to rough up the paint for the finish to adhere properly.

How do I get rid of blotchy areas when I stain?

Applying a wood conditioner or gel stain evens out absorbency for uniform staining. Blotchy spots often indicate the wood wasn’t properly prepped and cleaned prior to staining.

Conclusion

Restoring worn or damaged wood floors on your outdoor kitchen cabinets is a doable project for a DIYer. Proper preparation is key – thoroughly cleaning and sanding the wood prior to finishing. Use exterior grade stains and polyurethane to achieve a long-lasting, protected finish. Maintain the renewed wood by recoating as needed. Your refreshed wood floors can then withstand the outdoor elements and become a beautiful showpiece of your outdoor cooking and entertaining area.