How to Install an Outdoor Faucet - Outdoor Cabinets

Installing an outdoor faucet, also known as a hose bibb or sillcock, can seem like a daunting task for some homeowners. However, with the right tools and a bit of know-how, it can be an easy weekend project that will provide years of convenient outdoor water access. In this comprehensive guide, we will walk through the entire process of installing an outdoor faucet from start to finish.

Choosing the Right Outdoor Faucet

The first step is selecting the right outdoor faucet for your needs. Here are some things to consider:

Anti-Siphon Design – Outdoor faucets must have a vacuum breaker or backflow preventer built in to prevent contaminated water from siphoning back into your home’s clean water supply. This is an important safety feature that is required by plumbing codes.
Freeze-Proof – If you live in an area with freezing winter temperatures, choose a freeze-proof sillcock that has a long stem to keep the valve deeper inside your warm home. This prevents water in the pipe from freezing.
Material – Outdoor faucets are made from brass, stainless steel, or plastic. Brass is the most durable but also the most expensive. Stainless resists corrosion. Plastic is cheaper but not as strong.
Number of Handles – Most have two handles for hot and cold water. Single-handle types mix the water to temperature.
Spout Style – A straight or angled spout installs closer to the wall. A curved spout provides more clearance.
Length – Standard sizes are 6-12 inches measured from the outside wall. Choose the length needed to clear siding or trim.

For frost-free installation, a 10-12 inch faucet with a vacuum breaker is recommended. High quality brass or stainless will withstand outdoor use for years.

Gathering the Necessary Plumbing Tools

Installing an outdoor faucet requires a variety of common plumbing tools. Here is a list of what you will need:

Tape measure – For measuring pipe, valve, and wall thickness
Pencil – For marking measurements
Safety glasses & work gloves – For eye and hand protection
Hacksaw – For cutting plastic or copper pipe
Tubing cutter – For smooth straight cuts on copper tubing
Deburring tool – For smoothing rough edges on cut pipe
Adjustable wrenches (2) – For tightening fittings and valves
Channel-type pliers – For gripping and twisting flex lines
Teflon tape – For sealing pipe threads
Tube of pipe joint compound – For lubricating gaskets
Sandpaper – For scuffing up sillcock base prior to installing
Rag – For wiping away excess joint compound
Phillips screwdriver – For tightening sillcock base
Reciprocating saw – For cutting hole through exterior wall
Masonry drill bit – For drilling anchor holes in brick/concrete

Having these basic tools on hand will make the installation much easier. Always use caution when using sharp or powered hand tools. Safety comes first.

Selecting the Right Installation Location

Choosing the optimal outdoor faucet location takes a bit of planning. Here are some things to consider:

Accessibility – Pick a spot that allows easy access from all hoses without obstruction. Consider how far hoses will need to reach.
Proximity – Locate the faucet close to an existing interior water supply line to minimize pipe runs.
Elevation – Install above ground level to avoid tripping hazards and flooding issues. 12-18 inches above grade is recommended.
Drainage – Choose a well-drained area, not where water will pool. Wet soil may freeze in winter and damage the faucet.
Appearance – Pick a spot that looks visually balanced on the wall and has trim or fixtures to conceal the pipe.
Wall Material – Pick the thinnest exterior wall section possible for an easier install. Brick or block walls are more difficult.
Indoors – If installing in a garage, place the faucet close enough to vehicles needing water but out of normal traffic flow.

Take measurements and select a location that meets all criteria above. This will ensure optimal faucet function and appearance.

Shutting Off the Water Supply

Before beginning the installation, the water supply lines must be shut off. This prevents water from gushing out of any open pipes while you work. Here is the proper way to do it:

Locate Shutoff Valve – Find the main shutoff valve for the water supply entering your home. It is usually near the water meter or boiler.
Close Valve – Turn the shutoff valve clockwise until tight to cut off the water supply.
Open Faucet – Turn on the lowest cold water faucet in the house to bleed pressure from the plumbing lines.
Test Valve – Turn the shutoff valve back on briefly to confirm it is working, then shut it back off.
Check Faucets – Make sure no water is coming out of any faucets. The lines are now depressurized and safe to work on.

Always double check that the main valve is completely closed. Accidentally leaving it on could lead to a messy situation once you start cutting into water lines.

Installing New Water Supply Lines

With the water off, you can start installing new water supply lines that will feed the outdoor faucet.

Locate an existing vertical cold water pipe near the planned faucet location.
Shut off the isolation valve for this pipe if it has one. Open a faucet below it to depressurize.
Using a tubing cutter, carefully cut the vertical water pipe. Make sure to leave enough length on both sides for connections.
Deburr and sand the cut pipe ends so they are smooth. Wipe away any metal shavings.
Measure and cut two lengths of new copper tubing – one from the tee to the faucet, one from the tee to the main cut pipe.
Solder copper tee fittings on all cut pipes using lead-free flux and solder. Ensure proper heat and prep for leak-free joints.
Run the new copper tubing between the installed tees according to the measured lengths. Cut to fit.
Solder all remaining joints including the new tubing to the tees. Allow joints to cool completely before touching.

The new pipe runs are now ready to connect to the hose bibb faucet tailpiece when installed through the wall.

Cutting the Wall Opening

With plumbing prepped, it’s time to cut an opening in the exterior wall for the new outdoor faucet. Follow these safe steps:

Confirm the outdoor faucet location on the exterior wall. Double check measurements.
Use a stud finder to locate wall studs. Mark their locations with tape or pencil.
Measure and mark the hole location centered between two studs. Make sure there is enough space for the faucet body.
Put on safety glasses and gloves. Drill a pilot hole at an interior corner of the outline.
Use a reciprocating saw to carefully cut along the hole outline. Make an oval shaped opening slightly larger than the faucet.
File or sand any rough edges around the hole. Vacuum out all debris.
Drill anchor screw holes into mortar of block or brick walls. Insert anchoring wall plugs.

Go slowly during the cutting process to avoid cracks or unnecessary damage. Wear a dust mask when drilling concrete or block walls. Now the opening is ready for the faucet installation.

Installing the Outdoor Faucet

With plumbing and hole prepped, it’s time to install the outdoor faucet:

Disassemble the new sillcock by removing any mounting nuts or screws on the tailpiece.
Apply plumber’s putty around the base of the faucet. Press firmly into the wall opening so the putty seals to the wall.
From outside, insert the threaded tailpiece through the hole. Slide any washers or plates over the tailpiece before screwing on the mounting nuts.
Tighten the mounting nuts until snug. Do not overtighten.
Apply pipe joint compound or Teflon tape to tailpiece threads. Screw on coupling nuts for the new copper supply lines. Tighten.
Attach the garden hose adapter and handle if included. Hand tighten only.
For brick or block walls, drill anchor holes through the provided mounting ears on the faucet base. Insert anchoring bolts. Tighten.
Seal any gaps in the wall opening around the faucet base with outdoor caulk. Smooth the bead with a finger.

The outdoor faucet is now mounted! Next you will connect the water supply.

Connecting the Water Supply Lines

After mounting the outdoor faucet, the final step is to connect the water supply:

Turn the faucet handles to the OFF position before connecting water.
Turn the main water shut off valve ON very slowly to pressurize the lines. Check for leaks.
Connect flexible copper or stainless steel supply lines from the new copper tubing to the faucet tailpiece. Tighten firmly.
Ensure the faucet vacuum breaker is functioning properly. This may need to be reset after installing.
Turn the faucet handles ON and OFF a few times to clear any debris.
Let water run for 30-60 seconds to flush any sediment. Verify water is on and off with the handle.
Check all connections for leaks immediately and after a few hours. Tighten or reseal if any are found.
Attach your garden hose and enjoy your new outdoor water access!

Remember to disconnect and drain your hose and faucet before winter if in a freezing climate. A bit of maintenance will keep your new outdoor faucet working smoothly for many years.

Troubleshooting Common Outdoor Faucet Problems

While Outdoor faucets are quite durable, they can develop issues over time. Here are some common problems and solutions:

Leaky Valve or Dripping Water:

Worn out rubber washers need replacement. Turn off water, disassemble, and replace washers.
Valve seat is damaged from mineral deposits. File smooth with emery cloth.

Low Water Pressure:

Clogged screens or aerator in the faucet head need cleaning.
Partially closed shutoff valves must be fully opened.
Kinked garden hose must be replaced.

No Water Flow:

Shutoff valves are closed. Check and open them.
Faucet is frozen. Thaw with a hair dryer. Insulate to prevent future freezing.
Vacuum breaker needs resetting by cutting water on and off.

Water Leaking From Handle:

Adjust packing nut to stop leak. Replace handle o-rings.
Valve stem is damaged and needs replacement.

Leaking Around Base:

Reseat faucet with plumber’s putty if leak is around base.
Refasten mounting nuts if leak is around mounting bolt.
Cracked faucet body requires complete faucet replacement.

Doing periodic maintenance and fixing minor leaks quickly prevents more costly repairs later. Know when to call a plumber for major issues.

FAQs About Installing Outdoor Faucets

What are freeze-proof faucets?

Freeze-proof faucets have the valve deeper inside the warm house instead of on the exterior wall. This prevents water in the stem from freezing in winter. The stem is also longer.

Can I connect PEX or PVC instead of copper?

PEX tubing requires special connectors but can be used. Never use PVC for potable water lines. Only copper or stainless tubing is recommended.

Do I need a permit to install an outdoor faucet?

Most areas do not require permits for a simple outdoor faucet replacement. However, codes do apply. Check with local regulations to be sure.

How far apart should I place two outdoor faucets?

For convenience, space outdoor faucets at least 10-20 feet apart depending on your hose length. Put them adjacent to areas needing water.

Can I install an outdoor faucet on vinyl siding?

Yes, install a faucet block behind the siding so the faucet mounts securely to solid sheathing. Use special fasteners.

Should I use Teflon tape or pipe joint compound?

For plastic threads, use only Teflon tape. For metal connections, either can be used. Do not combine both together.

How do I winterize an outdoor faucet?

In freezing climates, disconnect hoses, turn off interior shutoffs, and open the faucet to drain remaining water before winter.

When should I seek professional help?

If the tasks seem too complex, if you lack the right tools, or if existing plumbing is too difficult to work with, hire a plumber.

Is a vacuum breaker required on outdoor faucets?

Yes, backflow preventer valves are code required for outdoor faucets to avoid contamination of drinking water.

Conclusion

Installing an outdoor faucet takes careful planning, the right materials, basic plumbing skills, and proper safety precautions. Select an ideal location, shut off water properly, install new supply lines, cut the right wall opening, mount the sillcock faucet securely, hook up the connections, and test for leaks. Consider freeze-proof and anti-siphon designs for your climate. Maintenance and winterization will keep your outdoor faucet working reliably for years of gardening and washing enjoyment. If the project seems too complex, never hesitate to call a professional plumber.