Understanding Metal Studs
Metal studs are increasingly common in modern construction instead of wood studs. Metal studs are thin vertical framing members made of galvanized steel.
Here are some key things to know about metal studs:
- They are very strong and don’t warp or twist over time like wood.
- They have holes punched along the length for running utilities like electrical and plumbing.
- The holes weaken the studs, so you cannot screw directly into them like wood studs.
- Common spacing for metal studs is 16 inches or 24 inches on center.
- Metal studs don’t provide much screw or nail holding strength unless secured properly.
Tools and Materials Needed
Gather the necessary tools and materials before starting:
- Stud finder for locating studs behind the wall.
- Protective eyewear for safety when drilling.
- Phillips head screwdriver for securing into metal.
- Electric drill with Phillips head bit.
- Appropriate screws (see next section).
- Washers.
- Solid blocking as needed (wood boards or metal plates).
- Level for keeping cabinets aligned.
- Pencil for marking stud locations.
Choosing the Right Screws
Using the right type of screws is imperative for attaching to metal studs securely. Avoid using drywall screws that are too brittle. The best screws include:
- Self-tapping metal screws – Designed for fastening into metal studs specifically.
- Self-drilling screws – Can drill their own pilot hole before threading into metal.
- Coarse thread screws – Sturdy and minimize stripping the stud holes.
Aim for #10 or #12 size screws at a minimum length of 1 1/4″. Using washers with the screws provides maximum holding strength.
Finding and Marking Stud Locations
Locating the metal studs accurately is crucial for proper cabinet installation:
- Use an electronic stud finder to detect stud edges through drywall. Mark edges lightly in pencil.
- Verify stud centers by measuring. Metal studs are usually spaced consistently 16″ or 24″ apart.
- Confirm marked studs by using a drill to make a small hole through the drywall and hit solid metal.
- Adjust your marks accordingly to pinpoint the exact stud center for screw placement.
Adding Reinforcements as Needed
Due to the inherent weakness of attaching directly to the punched-out holes in metal studs, some form of reinforcement is often needed:
- Blocking – Secure horizontal wood boards between studs as backer boards.
- Metal stud shoes – Special metal plates that bridge adjacent studs.
- Toggle bolts – Grips the wall versus just the stud. Useful for upper cabinets.
- Hollow wall anchors – Expand inside the wall for grip on just drywall.
Reinforce anywhere studs holes align with cabinet hanging points. This strengthens the studs for securely holding cabinet weight.
Drilling Pilot Holes
Drilling small pilot holes for the screws prevents stripping out the punched stud holes:
- Use a 1/8″ drill bit and drill slowly through the wall into studs at screw marks.
- Drill hole depth should be slightly deeper than screw length.
- Change drill bits if dull from metal contact.
- Vacuum holes to remove debris before driving screws.
Attaching Cabinets to Studs
With proper prep work done, attaching cabinets is straightforward:
- Have helpers lift and hold cabinets in place against the wall.
- Insert screws through cabinet backs into stud pilot holes and slowly drive in.
- Use fender washers behind screws for maximum holding power.
- Level and adjust cabinet position as needed until all screws are partially driven.
- Tighten down screws firmly once cabinet is aligned and level.
- Consider using construction adhesive between cabinet and wall for added stability.
- Install filler strips and trim pieces as needed for clean finished look.
Tips and Warnings
Follow these additional tips and precautions when installing cabinets on metal studs:
- Drill extra holes in studs to relocate screws if needed for proper cabinet fit.
- Wear safety glasses when drilling to protect eyes from metal shards.
- Take care around electrical wires inside stud cavities.
- Spread screws across multiple studs for heavy upper cabinets.
- Shim any cabinet gaps as needed to prevent uneven looks later.
- Avoid drilling new holes in metal door/drawer box portions of cabinets.
With the right techniques and fasteners, you can securely install cabinets on metal stud walls for long-lasting performance. Just take time to reinforce studs and pilot all screw holes.
Frequently Asked Questions About Attaching Cabinets to Metal Studs
Can I just use drywall screws for metal studs?
No, drywall screws are too brittle and will likely snap or strip inside the stud holes. Use self-tapping metal screws or self-drilling types rated for metal.
How do I find the exact stud center behind drywall?
Use an electronic stud finder first, then confirm with light drilling or by measuring for standard 16″ or 24″ stud spacing. Adjust your marks as needed after test drilling.
Should I screw directly into the metal studs?
Not without adding reinforcements like blocking or toggle bolts. The punched stud holes need backing support to hold screws securely.
What thickness of wood blocking board is best?
1/2 inch to 3/4 inch thick boards work well. Align the grain direction vertically for maximum strength. Construction grade 2x lumber is commonly used.
How many screws per stud should I use?
Space screws every 8 to 12 inches along the stud, using at least two screws per stud minimum. For heavy cabinets, use 3-4 screws per stud if possible.
Can I drill new holes in metal studs if needed?
Yes, just avoid the pre-punched holes. Use a stepped drill bit and drill slowly to avoid excess heating of the metal.
Conclusion
Installing cabinets on metal stud walls presents some challenges, but is very doable with the right techniques. The key steps include using self-tapping screws, reinforcing the studs as needed, drilling proper pilot holes, and ensuring the cabinets are level and secure. Paying attention to the details in this guide will result in sturdy, long-lasting cabinet installations on metal stud walls.