How to Hang Cabinets with Metal Studs - Outdoor Cabinets

Installing kitchen cabinets on metal studs requires some special considerations compared to wood frame construction. Metal studs are thinner and lack the wood’s natural fastening and holding abilities. However, with the right preparation and materials, you can securely mount cabinets on metal stud walls.

Introduction to Hanging Cabinets on Metal Studs

Metal studs provide a strong and fire-resistant framework for interior walls. They are commonly used in commercial buildings and high-rises but are becoming more popular in residential construction as well. Metal studs are typically made from galvanized sheet steel between 18 to 25 gauge in thickness.

While metal studs have advantages, they present challenges when mounting heavy items like cabinets directly to them. Here are some of the main factors to consider when hanging cabinets on metal studs:

No natural holding power – Unlike wood studs, metal studs have no natural holding ability. Screws can easily pull out under weight. Reinforcements are required.
Thinner profile – Metal studs are around 1 5/8″ thick compared to the 3 1/2″ width of a 2×4 wood stud. This leaves less screw penetration depth.
Hard surface – Screws cannot grip tightly into the metal and can loosen over time. Using self-tapping screws is recommended.
Spaced farther apart – Standard spacing for metal studs is 24″ on center rather than the 16″ for wood studs. This provides fewer attachment points.
Sensitive to corrosion – Exposed metal is prone to rust. Use coated self-tapping screws and isolation washers to prevent corrosion.

With proper planning and installation techniques, these difficulties can be overcome. The key is adding reinforcing support and using specialized fasteners designed for metals.

How to Find the Studs

Locating the metal studs is the first step to hanging cabinets. Here are some tips:

Use a stud finder designed for detecting metal studs. Standard magnetic stud finders won’t work on metal.
Look for drywall screw dimples. Drywall sheets are typically screwed into studs every 12 to 16 inches.
Verify stud locations with a strong magnet. It will stick to drywall screws or the stud itself.
Measure and mark the expected stud spacing from corners or openings. Standard spacing is 24″ on center.
Probe gently with a thin nail to feel for studs when unsure. Use caution not to damage plumbing or electrical.

Once you locate the studs, mark them clearly along the length of the wall. Studs often bow inward so mark the center for accuracy.

Materials Needed for Installation

Gathering the right supplies will make hanging cabinets on metal studs much easier. Here are the basics you will need:

Self-tapping screws – Designed to drill and tap their own threads into metal studs. Use #10 or #12 size.
Toggle bolts – Expands inside the wall for added holding support when no stud is available.
Backing boards – Plywood boards mounted horizontally across studs to reinforce attaching cabinets.
Isolation washers – Prevent metal-on-metal contact and corrosion. Use with self-tapping screws.
Wood blocking – Short 2×4 scraps pocket screwed between studs for cabinet sides or corners.
Metal angle brackets – For anchoring upper cabinets directly to metal studs.
Wood shims – For stabilizing and leveling cabinets after hanging. Match cabinet depth.
Stud punch set – For safely pre-drilling clearance holes through metal studs.
Impact driver – Provides extra power to drive self-tapping screws into metal studs.

How to Add Backing Boards to Studs

Backing boards help bridge the gap between studs to give full horizontal attachment support for mounted cabinets. Here is how to attach backing boards:

Materials Needed

3/4″ plywood or OSB backing boards, cut 2-3″ wider than cabinet width
2 1/2″ self-tapping drywall screws
Circular saw or jigsaw for cutting boards
Drill/driver for fastening screws

Instructions

Measure space between studs where cabinets will mount. Cut backing boards to this length.
Cut boards to height needed to attach cabinets, plus extra for top and bottom screw clearance.
Mark stud center locations on boards for drilling. Studs are usually 24″ apart.
Drill 1/8″ pilot holes in boards at stud marks to prevent splitting.
Position boards horizontally along studs and attach with self-tapping screws every 8-12 inches.
Screw boards to studs starting from the center and working outwards.
Ensure boards are flush to wall surface and adjoining boards to create even plane.

With backing boards installed, you can now securely attach mounting screws anywhere across their surface. This provides the extra support needed for hanging heavy cabinets on metal stud walls.

How to Add Blocking Between Studs

For additional reinforcement between studs, short 2×4 wood blocking can be added. Here is how:

Materials Needed

2×4 lumber, cut into 6-8″ blocks
3″ pocket screws
Pocket screw jig tool
Drill/driver

Instructions

Measure space between studs where extra blocking is needed.
Cut 2×4 blocks to fit snugly in the stud bay, about 1/2″ shorter than the bay depth.
Drill pocket holes in center of the blocks. Drill pocket holes in each end of blocks wider than 3″.
Position blocks vertically in stud bays, spacing equally or where needed for cabinet sides.
Drive pocket screws through pre-drilled holes to pull blocks tightly between studs.
Allow a gap behind blocks for insulation. Caulk gaps for sound damping.

The pocket screwed 2×4 blocking helps strengthen the spacing between studs, providing solid lateral attachment points for mounting cabinet sides or corners.

How to Mount Cabinets to Studs

With backing boards and blocking in place, you can now mount the cabinets directly to the metal studs. Follow these guidelines:

Materials Needed

Self-tapping screws, 1 1/4″ to 2″ size range
Washers for screw heads
Stud punch set for pre-drilling holes
Cabinet screw mounting blocks
Shims to level cabinets

Instructions

Position cabinets level and plumb against wall. Mark outlines with pencil.
Remove cabinets and pre-drill clearance holes at marked stud locations using stud punch set.
For upper cabinets, use metal angle brackets screwed into studs alone or supported by ledger boards attached between studs.
Replace cabinets and shim out from wall at front edge until level.
At back corner stud locations, drive 2″ self-tapping screws through cabinet backing blocks or rails and into studs.
Add middle screws along the cabinet length, spacing screws every 12-16″.
Check level and use shims to make any final adjustments. Tighten screws fully.
For cabinet sides, drive screws into wood blocking between studs if present.
Attach adjacent cabinets together through cabinet sides or face frames.

Follow the same mounting steps for additional cabinets, taking care to keep them all level with each other.

How to Use Toggle Bolts for Extra Support

Toggle bolts are useful for adding strength at non-stud locations when mounting cabinets on metal studs. Here are some installation tips:

Materials Needed

Heavy duty toggle bolts designed for metal studs, sized to cabinet backers
Stud punch set for pre-drilling wall clearance holes
Drill/driver for driving bolts

Instructions

Determine cabinet locations between studs needing reinforcement. Mark stud locations first.
Pre-drill clearance holes through wall using appropriate size step bit matched to toggle bolt size.
Collapse toggle wings and insert bolt into wall until they spring open behind wall, then tighten.
Position cabinet and shim out at front edge until level. Mark bolt locations on cabinet back.
Pre-drill holes in cabinet back. Ensure holes align with toggles in wall.
Insert bolts through cabinet back and thread into toggles. Tighten securely.
For heavy upper cabinets, it is advisable to still hit at least one stud location in addition to toggle bolts.

Toggle bolts installed at strategic points between studs give added security when mounting on metal stud walls. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper installation.

Tips for Hanging Heavy Upper Cabinets

Large upper kitchen cabinets laden with dishes require extra care when mounting to ensure they are secure. Here are some reinforcement tips:

Always try to hit at least one stud with the cabinet mounting screws for strength.
Use sturdy metal angle brackets designed for cabinet hanging. Look for at least 3″ width.
Attach angle bracket to wall studs using 3-4 self-tapping screws. Pre-drill clearance holes.
Mount a continuous wood ledger board to brackets to support full cabinet width.
Add cross brackets from ledger board to adjacent studs for extra strength.
Attach cabinet to ledger and brackets from inside if possible, not just at cabinet back.
Use large flat head lag screws and oversized washers to connect cabinet to ledger. Pre-drill holes.
Include several toggle bolts at strategic points between wall studs.

Taking these extra steps will provide a very secure mounting for heavy upper cabinets, preventing sagging or pulling away from the wall over time.

How to Hang Corner Cabinets on Metal Studs

Corner cabinets require special attention when installing on metal stud walls because only a small portion of the cabinet sits over the corner studs. Here are some tips:

Make sure the cabinet is designed for corner installation with adequate diagonal wall support built in.
Plan placement of corner studs or wood blocking to match cabinet mounting locations.
Attach an L-shapedledger board anchored diagonally across corner to studs.
Use metal T-straps or extra heavy angle brackets secured to studs in each direction.
Mount cabinet to ledger or brackets through the cabinet sides or face frame for maximum strength.
Include several toggle bolts at points between studs behind cabinet.
Keep upper corner cabinet height low if no soffit or ceiling support is available.

For extra confidence, consider adding plywood backing at corner framed like a triangle and well-secured to each stud. Then attach the cabinet securely to this backing.

How to Ensure Cabinets are Level

Keeping cabinets level and aligned is critical for proper installation. Here are some tips:

Check for high points and low points in the floor and compensate when shimming.
Use a long level or laser level to check cabinet tops and bottoms for level.
Tighten screws gradually in a crisscross direction to pull cabinets even.
Recheck level after every few screws to avoid getting too far out of alignment.
Use tapered wood shims at screw locations to make final level adjustments.
Fill any gaps at wall or ceilings with filler strips or scribe for a flush finish.
For floating cabinets, align rails carefully and use spacer blocks secured from inside cabinet.

Take care to keep cabinets properly aligned and the countertop will install cleanly. Rushing the leveling process can lead to a crooked finished look.

How to Scribe Cabinets for an Exact Fit

Scribing allows cabinets to follow uneven walls and placement inconsistencies for a perfect custom fit:

Materials Needed

Cabinetmaker’s triangle scrapers or wide chisels
Sandpaper and sanding block
Shim stock for shimming gap
Painter’s tape

Instructions

Push cabinet against wall and secure temporarily. Don’t fully tighten.
Use pencil to mark gap contour on cabinet where it misaligns with wall.
Loosen cabinet and move away from wall. Place painter’s tape along pencil line.
Use sharp chisel to trim away wood behind tape line. Test fit and trim as needed for fit.
Once gap is eliminated, smooth edge with sandpaper. Remove tape.
Shim cabinet out to correct depth and attach firmly to studs. Caulk seam if needed.

Scribing takes practice but allows cabinets to look built-in even on irregular walls. Take it slow and check frequently until the cabinet hugs the wall contours perfectly.

How to Fill Gaps Around Cabinets

Despite best efforts, some small gaps may persist around mounted cabinets. Here are tips for filling them:

Use scrap wood pieces glued and sanded down to fill small gaps at corners or along walls.
For larger gaps under cabinets, install trim pieces or filler panels to provide a flush look.
Caulk can close minor gaps up to 1/4″, especially where cabinets meet walls.
Use painters putty for small nail holes required for mounting cabinets. Let dry fully before sanding smooth.
Foam weatherstrip makes a quick filler for odd-sized gaps behind cabinets. Compress into gap before caulking.
Top gap where cabinet meets ceiling can be covered with trim, caulk, or filled with expanding foam for soundproofing.
If gap at floor is significant, cabinets can be lifted off and shimmed to align.

Take time filling gaps for a seamless kitchen cabinet installation. Proper caulking and finishing also helps prevent dust and pests from accessing gaps.

Mistakes to Avoid when Hanging Cabinets

Even experienced installers can make some common mistakes when mounting kitchen cabinets to metal stud walls. Be aware of these pitfalls:

Forgetting to hit studs behind cabinets with mounting screws.
Failing to pre-drill clearance holes in studs leading to screws stripping out.
Not using self-tapping metal screws long enough to penetrate studs sufficiently.
Leaving screws too loose or tightening unevenly leading to cabinet misalignment.
Mounting heavy upper cabinets without adequate reinforcement.
Not checking for level frequently enough as you attach cabinets.
Shimming poorly so gaps show between cabinets or walls.
Driving fasteners without isolation washers leading to rust stains.
Rushing and damaging cabinets trying to force them into position.
Scribing or trimming incorrectly leaving gaps between wall and cabinet.
Forgetting required filler pieces and panels before finishing job.

Being mindful on details such as properly locating studs, using appropriate fasteners, and taking care to shim, scribe and reinforce cabinets will lead to a successful metal stud cabinet installation.

Tips for Hanging Non-Kitchen Cabinets

The same principles used to hang kitchen cabinets apply to mounting non-kitchen cabinetry to metal stud walls throughout the home:

Bathroom Vanities

Reinforce along the width with backing boards since plumbing often limits stud access behind the basin area.
Build out framing as needed to allow miss-matched vanity depths to match tub or toilet sites.
Use metal T brackets at the cabinet top anchored into studs instead of cleats for heavy stone tops.

Built-in Bookcases

Include a center backing board vertically to provide mid-span rigidity.
Use metal stud adapters inserted between studs to secure shelf standards.

Laundry Utility Cabinets

Anchor bottom of tall units into floor with L brackets or lag screws in addition to wall attachment at top.
Include plywood reinforcements at back corners to attach hook plates for slide-out basket rails.
Allow raised clearance to avoid interfering with connections to washer stand pipes.

Office Built-ins and Desks

Use plywood panels and not just strips to bridge studs and support attachment of large desktops.
Allow room for conduit, junction boxes, and outlets that will service computer workstations.
Plan reinforcement behind lateral file drawer slide attachment points.

Adapting the basic installation principles to different cabinet applications throughout the home will lead to success.

Hanging Cabinets on Metal Studs – Summary

While it presents some challenges compared to wood stud walls, mounting kitchen cabinets securely on metal studs is achievable with careful planning and the right materials. Here are some key tips to remember:

Locate studs precisely and mark locations.
Attach horizontal backing boards between studs.
Use self-tapping screws at least 1 1/2″ long. Pre-drill clearance holes.
Include 2×4 blocking reinforcements between studs.
Add sturdy ledger boards to support wall cabinets.
Use heavy-duty toggle bolts at key points between studs.
Keep cabinets level and aligned as you mount them.
Use shims and scribe for a perfect fit against uneven walls.
Fill any gaps for a polished finish.

Follow these guidelines and you can expect a rock solid kitchen cabinet installation onto metal stud walls that will last for many years to come.

Frequently Asked Questions About Hanging Cabinets on Metal Studs

Q: Can I hang cabinets directly to metal studs?

A: Yes, but additional reinforcement is advised for sturdiness. Attaching support boards horizontally between studs and wood blocking gives greater holding strength. Backing materials spread force across the stud span.

Q: How do I find the exact stud center to mark for drilling?

A: Use a high quality stud finder calibrated for metal studs. Verify with magnets or probing nails. Drywall screw dimples also reveal locations. Measure over from known corners and openings based on typical 24″ on-center stud spacing as well.

Q: Should I use screws or toggle bolts to mount to studs?

A: Self-tapping screws specifically designed for fastening to metal studs are preferred